Discovering Austrian cuisine in Berlin
Think of Berlin for food and it’s Turkish pizza, a kebab or maybe currywurst? Delve deeper into the many neighbourhoods and you’ll find much more. We love Berlin and each time we return we try to seek out new districts and new places to discover off the tourist trail.
We visited Wohlfahrt’s Wirtshaus, a family-run Austrian restaurant in the Wilmersdorf district of (west) Berlin for dinner. In fact, it’s Styrian cuisine, so a specific area of Austria which we knew nothing of, and it’s in a residential area away from all the hipsters.
We ventured into the restaurant, doing our best to feel like a local, and could see that it is a place which attracts a lot of regulars, local families, couples and friends. In fact, it looks a bit like someone’s living room, a large one but not ours though as it’s tidy!
We were seated under paintings on the wall which were reminiscent of Egon Schiele and I was facing what looked like a portrait of Boris Blank from the Swiss band Yello! There are abstract posters on the walls elsewhere and subdued light making it cosy, casual and welcoming.
All the meat, cheese and even the bottled water comes from Austria though the beer comes from the Hofbräuhaus Traunstein brewery which is near the German-Austrian border.
While we waited for our food some sliced bread arrived.
But not just one type of bread, instead three varieties, with a cheese and dill spread.
To drink we had the pilsner (a good clean crisp one) and the unfiltered Zwickau beer, a light cloudy wheaty beer with lemon and lime taste and our favourite of the two.
For the starters, you can pick 3, 4 or 5 to share. We opted for 3: Austrian mountain bacon with a perfectly ripe pear; a Styrian wurst salad with chopped garlic sausage, tomatoes and fresh salad leaves in a vinaigrette with paprika and red onions; Baked asparagus, mixed leaf salad, rocket dip and cress.
This is the first time I think that we’ve had breaded asparagus – it looked like small pieces of breaded Camembert and being in Germany, where they love asparagus, this was good quality and fresh.
Brett’l Jasse – a mound of meat specialities, cheese and tangy vegetables. 5 types of meat in fact: Corinthian salami, Austrian smoked ham, Parma-style ham from Austria, garlic sausage and ox tongue with bacon fat. Then there were 2 types of creamy Austrian cheese. Silverskin pickled onions, crisp gherkin, chopped fresh horseradish and chopped radish. There was nothing unusual or complicated this, it was just good quality cheese, meat and veg – and heaps of it!
I had the pumpkin-seeded chicken panade. A ‘panade’ is a bit like schnitzel coated in breadcrumbs but it’s got more texture and flavour thanks to the addition of pumpkin seeds. On the side was cranberry jam, a lemon slice, and a herby potato and cucumber salad with sesame seed oil. This was another massive portion, and of course being in Germany/Austria the potatoes were perfect!
Emser Straße 24
Telephone: +49 30 23395723
Tuesday to Sunday: 17:00 to 23:30
Disclaimer: we were kindly invited to have a complimentary meal to help promote the restaurant to tourists but Fred has seen the pics and salivated at the thought of all that delicious meat so he knows that this is a truthful review.