Emma Luncheon in the birthplace of ‘Wind in the Willows’ author
Badger & Co in Edinburgh city centre has had a refurbishment to its overall look and menu. We had been there once before in 2021 and enjoyed it very much, so we were happy to return. Click here to read about our previous visit to Badger & Co in 2021.
Badger & Co on Castle Street is part of Signature Group, which has venues across Edinburgh, including The Huxley and Kyloe at The Rutland Hotel.
Its name comes from a former inhabitant, who was born here in 1859, Kenneth Grahame, who wrote Wind in the Willows and introduced us to Ratty, Mole, Mr Toad and, of course, Mr Badger.
There is a new head chef, Scott Campbell, who previously worked at The Rutland and McLarens on the Corner, and along with this, a refresh of the bar, and a menu revamp.
We visited on a clear sunny day, where outside, there are tables and a wooden elevated terrace, both with views of Edinburgh Castle, but we sett-led down inside on the extremely comfortable Oxford wingback chairs by the window.
We picked a Taps Piaff (did you see what they did there?) It wasn’t quite ‘taps aff’ on our visit, but it was certainly pleasant. This cocktail was made with Whitley Neill Black Cherry, Mint, Cucumber, Lemon, and Piaff Champagne. Our other drink was a Cold Town Peachy, which is brewed in Edinburgh.
Menu
Breakfast Menu
Main Menu
Starters
I began with the steak tartare (£14) egg yolk, pickled mushrooms, and focaccia crackers. A light but meaty tartare, pleasantly seasoned with a vinegary flavour and three crisp squares of focaccia, which was a bit different.
Mark’s starter was the Woven whisky-glazed Scottish smoked salmon, caviar, crème fraîche, dill oil, and more focaccia crackers (£11). The smoked salmon was lightly flavoured, and ideally paired with the crème fraîche and dill oil. I could happily have munched away at this all day. Both were good-sized portions.
Main courses
Mark picked the pork tomahawk (£27) for his main, which looks a bit like a meaty axe! It was tender and rich with the n’duja, red pepper glaze and salsa verde, providing a fresh and vibrant spicy flavours. Also on the plate was a creamy potato gratin under the cavolo nero to help us on our way to five a day.
For myself, I had the Butter poached cod (£23), mussel velouté, baby leeks, heritage potatoes, samphire, sea herbs and dill oil. A flaky, buttery slice of fish, though the sea herbs had quite a prominent fennel/aniseed taste, which was a bit too strong for my palate.
Desserts
We rounded off with two puddings with very different characteristics. One was a curious dish that was described as a cranachan teacake (£8.50) but was basically a large Tunnocks teacake stuffed with raspberry, chocolate and whipped crème fraîche. Bitter dark chocolate and tart raspberries.
The other was a substantial chunk of Clava Brie that came with not just oatcakes and chutney, but also two slices of hot, home-made fruit loaf (£12.50).
Verdict
Unpretentious and nicely judged, we enjoyed our second visit to Badger & Co. It isn’t a couthy gastropub, but nor is it too high-falutin’. The food is superior pub grub with more of a cocktail bar than pub feel. Everything was to a high standard, so it lived up to the price tag. Service was very good, and the toilets were in tip-top shape. We would happily return again for more food and merriment.
Where
Badger & Co, 32 Castle St, Edinburgh EH2 3HT
Reservations
Click here to book: Badger & Co.
